Martin Dwyer's Cookery Blog - Two French Potato Dishes

Martin Dwyer's Cookery Blog - Two French Potato DishesWe Irish are fairly addicted to potatoes, in my restaurant in Waterford I regularly had two different potato dishes available and people regularly used to have both, maybe it all reflects back to the famine when our much loved staple was threatened.

Since I am now in France it is refreshing that French country food is just as dependent on the potato as ours.

Here are two French potato dishes from provincial France.

Potatoes with Onion and Bacon

Known as Roigabrageldi in Alsace

1.5kg (3 lbs) Potatoes
225g (8 oz.) Streaky Rashers
2 large Onions
90g (3 oz.) Butter
Salt and pepper.

Chop the bacon and fry quickly until the fat runs.
Take them from the pan before they brown but keep the bacon fat.
Add an ounce of butter to the pan and fry the onions in this for 3 mts until they have softened a little and started to take some colour.
Peel the potatoes and slice into thin slices (a food processor or mandoline is handy for this.)
Oil or butter an oven proof dish .
Put a third of the potatoes in the bottom of the dish and season.
Spoon over half of the bacon and the onions.
Put another third of the potatoes on this then the bacon and onions as before.
Finish with a layer of potatoes and then dot over the remaining butter.
Put this into a hot oven (220C,425F,Gas 7) and cook for an hour.
(Check from time to time to make sure the top isn't burning, cover with tinfoil if necessary.) After an hour check with a sharp knife or skewer to make sure the potatoes are cooked through.
Serve in the casserole .


Aligot

(Cheese and Garlic Mashed Potatoes from the Auvergne)


8/10 med. Potatoes (about 2 kg. unpeeled)
150ml (5 fl. oz.) Milk
60g (2 oz.) Butter
1 fat Clove Garlic
200g (7oz.) Cantal, Comté or strong Cheddar
Salt and Black Pepper


For Irish potatoes to stop them breaking up in the water I always steam them.
Peel the potatoes and store in cold water until ready.
Steam over boiling water until very tender-this will take about 45mts.
.
For guaranteed lump free mash now push them through a sieve or a muli-legume or else just break down well with a masher.
Bring the milk to the boil with the butter and the crushed clove of garlic.
Simmer together then strain over the potatoes, discarding the garlic.
(This is one of the rare occasions when I think that just a hint of garlic is sufficient)
Cut the cheese into little dice.
Season the potato with the salt and pepper and sprinkle in the cheese.
Then - using a wooden spoon or an electric whisk- beat them well until they have absorbed all the milk and have gone white and fluffy and the cheese has melted into the potato.
Serve immediately or reheat and re-beat before serving.

This are superb with some plain grilled meat or with bacon.

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Further Information

Chef Martin Dwyer, age 60, has been cooking professionally for the last 40 years. He sold his acclaimed restaurant Dwyer's in Waterford four years ago to realise his life’s dream - running a Chambre d’Hôte in Southern France. In summer 2009, Martin and his wife Síle were putting the finishing touches on Le Presbytère, an old presbytery in the little circulade village of Thézan Lès Béziers in the Herault between the mountainous Haut Languedoc and the Mediterranean. To follow their adventure, look at Martin’s blog: www.martindwyer.com  

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