The Beauty Spot - Behind the ‘Vogue’ scene
Ros Drinkwater looks at the film documentary that focuses on two women in their 60s who have a powerful influence on the world of fashion
With all the column inches devoted to The September Issue, the film documentary that takes us behind the scenes of American Vogue, I’m surprised there hasn’t been more made of the fact that its two stars are both in their 60s. Editor Anna Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington are the undisputed queens of the fashion world; they have more influence globally on women of all ages than anyone else. If you give even a tiny toss about style, whatever you’re wearing, chances are, one of them was responsible for putting it on the fashion agenda.Personal politics
Those who have seen The Devil Wears Prada – the feature film based on the roman à clef of Wintour’s former (and clearly disgruntled) assistant – may expect a rip-roaring bitch fest. However, the new documentary is a fascinating, low-key study in personal politics between the glacial Anna and the passionate Grace. Their approach to just about everything couldn’t be more different.
Wintour is stylish, groomed from her Jimmy Choos up, not forgetting that sleek glossy bob – believe me, a woman who’s kept the same hairdo since she was 14 is one über-confident lady. Her editorial nous was bred in the bone. Her father, Charles Wintour, was one of the best newspaper editors of his age and I dare say the young Anna picked up a few tips from Audrey Slaughter, her brilliant stepmother. Slaughter revolutionised woman’s magazines in the 1970s with lively, intelligent publications that provided a welcome alternative to the template of the time, which was a choice between Woman’s Own knitting patterns and Cosmopolitan’s orgasm etiquette.
Forget fur
I quarrel with Wintour on the subject of fur. The centuries-old argument for wearing fur was always that it was far and away the most efficient way to stay warm. However, with innovative modern fabrics, that’s no longer true. Fur is glamour at an unacceptable cost. Baby seals are clubbed to death on the ice. The mink is a solitary animal but farmed mink are kept in cages in close proximity to dozens of others. Wearing the pelt of a dead animal is a barbarous practice that belongs back in an age when they didn’t know any better.
Coddington, aged 68, emerges as the live wire and a woman who takes immense pleasure in her job. The creator of 1,001 fantasy photo shoots, in real life she thinks laterally. Years ago she pioneered a hassle-free recipe for work clothes in summer –a plain white T-shirt for every day of the week, worn with plain pants. What could be lower maintenance?
One of her ideas that didn’t catch on was the ‘no eye make-up’ look. It takes courage to face the world sans mascara. The only time I’ve been seen without mine was last spring when a Heathrow Holiday Inn forgot my 4.30am wake-up call and I made the plane with seconds to spare, bare faced and still in my pyjamas.
Clothes apart, the film could have some kind of impact on women approaching retirement. It might just make them think twice. Given a choice between leisure-filled days stretching out ad infinitum and a job that’s rewarding, I know which one I’d choose.
Fashion note
I’m pleased to see that Paul Costello has given the thumbs up to big shoulders – the wider the shoulders, the narrower the hips look. Blazers are back, as is the very ladylike, calf-length pencil skirt – just don’t wear them together. You’ll want a waisted jacket to wear with the skirt. With the blazer, wear slim pants. With both items, I’d suggest Todd’s new high-heeled ankle boots.
For casual winter coat style, check out the two latest offerings from Toast, which are available by mail order. The first is a wrap coat in wool-felted jersey with a tie belt and popper fastenings, available in dark khaki or black. The second is a slightly a-line moleskin funnel neck coat with patch pockets, available in anthracite, ochre or aubergine. Both are priced at stg£175. Based in Wales, Toast makes chic quality clothing and has a returnable policy if you find your choice doesn’t suit you. See what’s on offer by logging on to www.toast.co.uk.
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