Lisbon - An exciting city for the independent traveller
If you are an independent minded traveller who enjoys exploring places at your own pace, Robbie Cousins suggests that the enigmatic, yet easily accessible, Portuguese capital Lisbon should be your next port of call.
According to ABTA, a UK based travel association, people in their 50s, 60s and 70s are now the world’s fastest growing holiday market, taking several breaks a year. But with so many European capitals having transport systems that only make sense to locals, older visitors tend to be left at the mercy of tour operators and too often fail to experience the authentic magic of a city. If you dislike the constraints of packaged tours, preferring to explore cities at your own pace, Lisbon - with its network of trams, trains, funiculars, buses and an elevator - is a city that is perfect for the independent traveller.On arrival
Portugal has a proud maritime history, which should become obvious as your plane descends above the mouth of the river Tagus. Below, you may catch sight of the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates Portuguese Exploration pioneers such as Henry the Navigator, Vasco da Gama and Pedro Álvares Cabral (who discovered Brazil), as well as the Belem Tower and the more contemporary 25th of April Bridge.
Lisbon city centre
Just two hours flight from most European capitals, Lisbon city centre is also a short, inexpensive (about €10) taxi ride from the airport. In 1755, it was destroyed by an earthquake, which killed over 30,000 people. Afterwards, it was decided to demolish all damaged buildings and rebuild the city centre in line with modern urban design principles. The resulting grid layout comprises lines of interconnected tiled and cobble streets, squares and tree-lined boulevards. Today, the shopping districts of Baixa Chiado, Barrio Alto and Avenida da Liberdade boast a broad selection of shops offering everything from the latest high end fashion goods to antiques and hand-painted ceramics as well as fine ports and wines.
Touring Lisbon
Lisbon is a hilly city. However, the already mentioned extensive transport network, including the Santa Justa Elevator (one of the city’s most popular attractions) ensures that it can be easily explored without too much loss of breath. A Carris one-day or three-day travel pass, which entitles holders to unlimited travel on all city networks, is a must, and it is available from Carris kiosks around the city at a daily cost of €3.70.
Walking old Alfama
The hilly Alfama district - almost untouched by the 1755 earthquake - oozes faded grandeur. Its tiled and cobbled streets are dotted with mosaic-adorned buildings. Add the evocative sound of Fado music and the smell of freshly-cooked fish emanating from local restaurants and you can see why parts of Lisbon are living museums. Above Alfama, the Castelo de Sao Jorge is the highest point of the city and without doubt has the most magnificent views. If you intend to explore the area on foot, ensure you wear comfortable walking shoes with good grips, as the cobbles can be hard on feet and slippy in wet weather.
Discover Belém
Belém and the Discoveries, which you may have seen from the air on your arrival, are a15-minute bus, tram or train ride from the city centre. A morning spent exploring the Belém district could also include a visit to the Jerónimos Monastery and a stop off at the Pasteis de Belém bakery to taste the world’s most famous custard cream tart, baked to a secret recipe. The No 15 tram pulls up just outside the bakery.
A tour of Lisbon in the No 28 Tram
The No 28 Tram is the Lisbon’s most photographed tourist attraction. This old tram trundles and creeks across the city, through the hills of Alfama, on to Baixa Chiado and Barrio Alto - with their eclectic shops, restaurants and coffee houses - and beyond, carrying tourists and locals through many of Lisbon’s old back streets.
Further afield - Parques das Nacoes
Outside of the city centre, the futuristic Parques das Nacoes offers a more modern tourist experience. Key attractions include the Oceanarium aquarium, the Promenade cable cars and the Rafael twin towers.
Incidentally, Parques das Nacoes also commemorates Vasco da Gama with both a shopping centre and Lisbon’s other Tagus bridge crossing named in his honour. At 17.2km long, the Vasco Da Gama Bridge is also Europe’s longest bridge.
Cascais
Finally, if Lisbon gets too hot, an 80-minute train ride to the small resort town of Cascais (30km from Lisbon) may cool you down. After a leisurely stroll around the small town centre, walk back along the shoreline promenade to Estoril, stopping off for a fish lunch at a beachside cafe, and then catch your train back to the city centre from Estoril.
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